Making Friends in Marseille

Arriving in Marseille was kind of a shock. 
I was so used to living in a dorm with 60 other people. I'm the type of person that needs human interaction (at least once a day)... I'm not going to say I don't like quite, alone time, but I like people... Probably one of the reasons I chose Marseille instead of like Port Grimaud or a tiny French village or something where it surely would have been cheaper and the majority of people twice my age.

This painting makes me wish I had lived in a Provence village though...

I began writing, touring, reading, researching (as always), and exploring... But I was beginning to think I'd be lost unless I learned French over night...

I met with the Production Company I would be interning for, as I mentioned before, and they all spoke English pretty well, but they're not 19-21 year old students all prepared to Party in Prague... Didn't realized this until I got there... But Prague is supposedly the Party Capital of Europe... So many clubs and it's so cheap to drink... Plus in small amounts, most drugs are legal... Not that that's relevant to me at all.

Many more tourists in Prague than Marseille. And many more clubs... Not to mention BECHEROVKA

So... On May 27th, I went to couchsurfing.com looking to see if anyone needed a host. It just so happened that a young traveling Chinese guy needed a place immediately the next night for three nights and no one had yet offered to host him... I decided I would do just that. And, hey, I'd be able to practice my Chinese!

What I fun guy!
Or so I thought for the first day. He was so excited that I spoke Chinese and knew Chinese culture. We listened to Chinese pop music and toured all of the places that I'd already toured.

I watched Days of Being Wild by Wong Kar Wai (he fell asleep near the beginning), drank French wine (I feel guilty if I do it alone... it's a social thing after all... however I think he took it as more than just social... He kept awkwardly cheersing me like every 3 minutes... romantic or something??), and did loads and loads of talking (the first night. very openly which may have given him the wrong idea?)....

He said he's never met anyone so open minded..

I mean, I guess that's true, but when you compare the Chinese way of thinking to the American way of thinking... we are all very open-minded. That's one cool thing about France.... They're super open-minded as well. I think probably more so than the Czech Republic...

Then... I got sick... Stomach problems (again)... So two things brought me down his first full day here: my stomach and his incessant flirting... I tried not to let it bother me. Overall it was an okay day... But I think the stomach problems only became worse because he insisted on making me homemade Chinese food. Super super considerate, but not at all what I'm used to eating with my sensitive stomach.

We listened to all the Chinese pop I learned in high school and he was convinced I was going to re-memorize one of the songs and perform it and become famous in China... He wouldn't let it go...

However, there are three reasons I'm glad he came... I wasn't bored, I got to improve my Chinese (finally), and the last night he was here, we went out and I made some Marseille friends. We went to a few places: a tapas bar, a bar, another bar, and then on our way home E-Wine (a wine bar that plays electronic music?) where in order to get away from his unwanted attention, I turned to these cool Williamsburg looking girls (awful to say, but easiest way to describe them without getting into French style... Either way, it's definitely a cool French style) and asked if they spoke English. We got to talking. Their friends showed up and they invited us to hang out at their apartment.

Don't mind the scratch on my iPhone lens... It makes everything blurry and unclear

So glad I met them. Definitely excited to make more friends in Marseille. Such a rich culture.

My couchsurfer passed out and I had to take him home where he attempted to "make memories" as he called it, but I forced him out of my bed... 
And in the morning he was gone... Off to Paris.

Oh the people you'll meet.
What exciting adventures.
What different cultures. And while My chinese friend had a personality that was unwanted at times, I respect the differences in culture and where he was coming from. I'm sure if I was a Chinese guy and a young pretty American girl began talking to me so openly and was so willing to go on adventures with me, I'd be flirty... But either way.... People are weird. :)

First Full Day in Marseille

The Day to Get Stuff Done (or just explore)

Didn't actually get anything from the grocery store the night before. It was that disgusting. And overpriced. Thankfully, I waited because I'm learning where to get the best prices now (closer to NYC prices...). 

This morning I found a Petit Casino (not so Petit as the place before) that is an actual supermarket only a couple blocks from my apartment. 

The produce shop I go to NOW (not Petit Casino). They have spinach here!!!! I've been having trouble finding it

My neighborhood is even cooler during the day... Bright, colorful, happening, young. For example, that little fruit and vegetable shop is a staple around my parts ;)

Neighborhoods of Marseille (or ones I've been to so far)

If you don't feel like learning about Neighborhoods of Marseille, skip down to "Getting Stuff Done in Marseille"

Cours Julien, Notre Dame du Mont et La Plaine  -  "Un quartier particulièrement agréable"

Cours Julien, Notre Dame du Mont and La Plaine -  "A particularly nice neighborhood"

I would agree with that sentiment. I think I live in a "particularly nice neighborhood." I'm not sure if it was just the author of that website that wrote that, but I get the feeling I've seen the saying around town as well. But supposedly the neighborhood is the most hip one in all of Marseille and it's famous for it's street art.

Le quartier est très agréable en journée et regorge de créateurs de mode, fleuristes, concept store, restos et bars tendances, magasins de musique, brocantes et marchés... Les nombreuses rues piétonnes, la grande place Jean Jaurès, l'ambiance inimitable du cours Julien et la tranquilité de la place Notre Dame du Mont font du quartier un endroit privilégié par les artistes en tous genres, les bobos marseillais et de nombreux jeunes et étudiants.

Le cours Julien est souvent le lieu de manifestations intéressantes : Journées des Plantes, Marché Paysan, vide-greniers, sardinade, salons de la Création, et la célèbre Fête du Plateau... Le soir, le quartier s'anime et accueille une population tout aussi importante. De nombreux bars musicaux, salles de concerts et petits restos contribuent à rendre l'endroit vivant et agréable.

The area is very pleasant during the day and is packed with fashion designers, florists, concept stores, restaurants, trendy bars, music stores, and markets [of different sorts depending on the day]... The many pedestrian streets, the great place Jean Jaures, the inimitable atmosphere of Cours Julien and tranquility of the place. Notre Dame du Mont makes the neighborhood a great place for artists of all kinds, the bums of Marseille and many young students.

Cours Julien is often the place of interesting events: Garden Days, a Farmers Market, yard sales, sardines (have yet to learn what that means), salons of Creation (or that... must be French. I'm learning with you), and the famous Feast of the Plateau (can't wait for that!) ... At night the area comes alive and has a population just as important. Many music bars, concert halls and eateries help make the place lively and pleasant.

Le Champ de Mars, a very popular bar you can't help but pass in Cours Julien

The graffiti-filled walls near the steps leading up to the Cours Julien section of the city.

Cours Julien marketplace (you can see the steps down to the city)

 

Canebiere and Noailles (next door to my neighb)

Au centre des grands projets de réhabilitation du centre ville, la Canebière s'éveille à nouveau grâce au passage du Tramway et à un effort continu pour redorer les couleurs de cette institution marseillaise. Du palais de la Bourse aux Réformés, de Noailles à la Porte d'Aix une ambiance très marseillaise s'en dégage.

Jouxtant la Canebière, le quartier Noailles est célèbre pour son Marché des Capucins et pour la diversité des épices que l'on y trouve.

 

In the center of major rehabilitation projects downtown, Canebière wakes again thanks to the passage of the Tramway and a continuous effort to burnish the colors of this institution Marseille. The palace of the Exchange for Reformed de Noailles at the Porte d'Aix Marseille an atmosphere emerges.

Adjoining the Canebiere, the Noailles district (MUCH MORE IMPORTANT TO ME) is famous for its Capuchin Market and the variety of spices and produce that are there.

Noailles is a lively and colorful neighborhood. The neighborhood distinguishes itself by its huge foreign community and exotic shops, mainly Handicrafts, traditional restaurants and exotic grocery stores. It's the only neighborhood you can get products from the five continents (of this hemisphere???) in the same area. 

Canebiers

 

Estienne d'Orves & Rue Sainte

Estienne d'Orves & Saint Street

Proche du vieux port, le quartier Estienne d'Orves - Place aux Huiles,est un des lieux les plus agréables pour flaner au gré de ses envies... La place abrite de nombreux bars et restaurants, plusieurs galeries d'art, la chambre de l'artisanat et des métiers d'art et de nombreuses boutiques de prêt à porter.

Boosté par le dynamisme des commerçants du quartier, la place est souvent le lieu de manifestations culturelles.

Parrallèle à la place, la rue Sainte, est devenue ces dernières années une des rues à la mode de Marseille. De nombreux concept store y fleurissent et cotoient les nombreux restaurants et quelques institutions marseillaises comme le santonnier Carbonel et son musée ou le célèbre Four des Navettes.

Near the old port district Estienne d'Orves - Place Oils, is one of the most pleasant places to stroll to suit your desires ... The square is home to many bars and restaurants, crafts, several art galleries, the chamber of crafts and many shops selling clothes.

Boosted by strong neighborhood merchants, the area is often the place of cultural events.

Parallel to the place, Sainte, in recent years has become one of the fashionable streets of Marseilles. Many concept stores bloom there and rub shoulders with many restaurants and some institutions such as Marseilles santonnier Carbonel and Museum or the famous Four Shuttles. 

I will walk through here to get to my internship every week

Lively street I had my first meal "out" on. I walk down it to get to my internship.

Le Vieux Port  -  "Le coeur et l'âme de la ville"

The Old Port - "The Heart and Soul of the City"

 

Pour découvrir Marseille, tout commence sur le Vieux Port et les rues adjacentes.
On s'y retrouve sur l'une des nombreuses terrasses ensoleillées, on profite de l'ambiance unique et on part à la découverte des boutiques et restos qui longent les quais.

Haut lieu des sorties nocturnes et culturelles, le vieux port est à  l'image de marseille, un lieu unique où se côtoient toutes les populations, des touristes aux pécheurs traditionnels.

Marché aux poissons tous les matins, écaillers, locations de bateaux, accessoires de plongée, agences de voyages... Le vieux port est à l'image de Marseille, un lieu de vie animé, intimement lié à la mer et aux voyages.

To explore Marseilles, everything starts at the Old Port and the adjacent streets.
One should start on one of the many sunny terraces, where you can enjoy the unique atmosphere and from there you can start to explore the shops and restaurants that line the docks.

Vieux Port is a mecca of nightlife and culture. It is the image of Marseille, a unique place which combines all populations, from tourists to the traditional fishermen.

Fish market every morning, oystermen, boat rentals, diving gear, travel agencies ... The old port is the image of Marseille, a vibrant place to live, intimately linked to the sea and travel.

Opéra - Paradis  -  "Shopping différent en plein coeur de la ville"

Opera & Paradis St - "Shopping 'differently' in the heart of the city

Au coeur de la ville, entre le Vieux Port et la Préfecture, se trouve l'un des quartiers les plus intéressants.
Autour de l'Opéra Municipal, le quartier se démarque par la diversité et par la qualité des boutiques que l'on y trouve.

La rue de la Mode, la rue Davso, le bas de la rue Paradis et bien sur la rue Grignan attirent de nombreux marseillais.

At the heart of the city, between the Old Port and the Prefecture, is one of the most interesting neighborhoods.
Around the Municipal Theatre, the district is noted for the diversity and quality of shops that are there.

Street Fashion, Street Davso down the street and of course Paradise Street Grignan Marseille which attract many. (Paradis has everything... H&M included. Craziest and busiest H&M I've ever been in)

This area is one of the more commercial and newer areas of Marseille. Be prepared to be attacked by the homeless...

This is where all of the tourists can be found! Along with Vieux Port. None of which speak English might I add you. Nor do the majority of the natives... Kinda tough. At least I'm animated!

  

Getting Stuff Done in Marseille

Patrick came over for all the many questions I still had. We never got the hot water or the oven working... But eventually, us smarties, figured both out. 

We also figured out wifi in the apartment AND for some reason Marseille is really cool and you can pay a phone/internet company to have wifi access throughout the city. SFR and Free both have routers on most blocks and if you have an account you can get wifi anywhere (only if you sign in every time you move a block away or close your phone... BLEGH).  I now have an SFR account so I can get wifi nearly anywhere, which is nice when you're stranded and absolutely need that connection... 

Patrick took me out "on the town"

Dunno why, but I've learned how to get around this place instantly... Took me weeks in Prague. Probably because I was following everyone else and we took the tram everywhere and the places we went were rather far apart... Also Prague is all curvy and the streets don't really make sense. Marseille isn't nearly as bad at that.

We went to find a place that would make keys. Neither of us knew the word for it exactly, in English or French. Key-maker? Locksmith?

Spent 20euros for 4 keys... EHHHHH..... Did I mention...?

FRANCE IS EXPENSIVE!!!

Especially compared to Prague. Everything is dirt cheap in Prague. For the most part. A glass of wine? $2, a beer? $2... Here? At least $4-$5 and that's dirt cheap here!! Because, of course, France is where you get cheap wine! 

COST OF PRAGUE COMPARED TO MARSEILLE  - no, but seriously, go here. You'll learn something. Explore the site. It's pretty awesome what you learn with a little research ;)

 

Patrick took me out to Cours Julien square (after the ATM)

Interesting Fact: The Homeless are Ruthless here. More so even than NYC or anywhere I've ever been. In Prague, for the most part, they sit on the side of the sidewalk, out of the way, bowing as low as possible so that you can't see their face, with a hat in their hands. Motionless. In Marseille, they sit next to the ATM, obviously already tripping balls, loudly asking for money as soon as you withdraw your bills... I also was standing on Paradis street (shopping district) trying to get Wifi and a man came up to me showing me a coin. I said I don't speak French and kept repeating "No." First of all, all I had was Czech coins... He wouldn't leave me alone. He began following me. Maybe if you're polite I'll give you money old man... I walked away.  

 

And we had a coffee. I had an iced coffee (which he said he never has, and now I realize no French people have. They have their mini EXTRA STRONG coffee BLACK). 

So, Patrick thought this was hilarious, but I kind of thought it was a tiny bit rude, but the iced coffee came out with a straw and there was like foam bubbling out of the top of the straw. I grabbed the straw to suck on it, but to my dismay, it was a spoon to stir the coffee with a little ball on the end. Patrick literally couldn't stop cracking up for probably 5 minutes straight. He thought it was absolutely hilarious. I just sat there laughing for probably 10 seconds, then in silence as he continued to laugh at me... It was only slightly awkward... Love the guy, but that wasn't that funny...Or maybe it was... Guess I just don't get the French humor.

Meeting My Boss Lady :)

Headed down my NOW favorite street of Rue Estelle (the really steep one that leads from steps from Cours Julien). It's a great view. Not my favorite street when I have to go back up it though!  Below it (it turns into a bridge) you can see the bustling street of Cours Lieutaud running perpendicular.

 

I love the location of Monkey Bay Productions, the production company I'll be interning for in Marseille. It's right off of the port. As your walking down the (yet another) steep hill of the street (Rue Fort Notre Dame) towards the office, you're walking towards the Vieux Port. 

 

Great People. I'll technically be working for the Journalist, Coralie, and I will be finding them "fixers" in the foreign countries that they will be filming their documentary in. The "fixer" (as it is said in French) is the person that finds the people and families to be filmed making sure they are good candidates in front of the camera and making sure the logistics are ready for shooting in that country. They will also be doing transportation. I would say that they are the production coordinator in that country, but they do more than that and not exactly the same things, at all.... So not really a production coordinator. Kind of like a Production Manager for that Unit... But not a UPM, having nothing to do with budget, as it is my understanding...  

So that's where my research skills (and fluency in English) come in handy. 

Oh yeah, they offered me a work email. Uh huh...

I'm really excited about working for them, I'm just nervous that they want me to start so soon. I was hoping for a little bit of a break (maybe a couple weeks before getting back to work in the film industry)... But I guess that's just how the industry works...  

 

One problem: I still didn't have a French phone. I had given them my Czech number which to reach me by. 

So I went to an SFR store (made a friend with the woman who works there: Julia!) that I had passed by on my walk to MBP (I've never done that before... haha) along Rue Sainte (if you read all of my blog, you'd know a little bit about Rue Sainte already!). Like I said, things are expensive in France. Supposedly things in Marseille are about half the price that they are in Paris... So that's one of the big reasons I chose Marseille! It's also supposedly the cheapest city along the Mediterranean coast. Which results in a lot of North African immigration, and immigration in general.

Definitely going to be eating mostly from home. Restaurants are so expensive unless you get like a gross salad (slightly better than Prague cheap salads) or a panini from a little cafe somewhere... I miss chlebicky for 16Kc (a little less than $1).

But nothing beats my home cooked meals. Or so I think.... And the spices that I usually use for my chicken are fresher than ever because I use Provence spices :))

Oh Provence. Oh Marseille. How I love you

 

Welcome to Marseille (and its beautiful landscape)

My Trip to Marseille from Prague: 2 Hours (or it was supposed to be a 2 hour flight...)

The plan for today, May 22nd, was supposed to be a simple, lazy day. Compared to the wonderful, eventful days before that I spent with my two lovely actors, Karel Hermanek and Nikol Kouklova, it was... I think... I woke up at 8, made sure all my things were together (they were), said my final goodbyes (a lot of the film students were already gone, either back to NYC or traveling throughout Europe), and headed down to catch my taxi at 10:20am. 

You don't realize how comfortable you get when you live in a place for four months. I made my final breakfast (of course, sauteed spinach, fried eggs and salsa, as always) and realized how much stuff I had in that kitchen. I shared half of a drawer for my non-refrigerated goods and had a whole shelf in the fridge. I had 6 kinds of nuts, several spices, several sauces and loads of ingredients which I had planned on using to make certain dishes which I never made (Beef Stroganoff???). It felt odd throwing out ingredients. It felt like I was throwing out a life I had made in a beautiful kitchen in Prague. 

Don't even get me started on my room. Though, that's slightly different. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did in my room as I did in my kitchen; even though I would have liked to have spent even more... I can never cook enough. I did my school work, for the most part, in the kitchen. I would say study, but we never studied except for two days at the end of the semester for our "finals".

AAA

Triple A... Friend to absolutely EVERY student that studied in Prague this semester. EVERY student. If you can name one student that never step foot in a AAA taxi, I'd give you... 100... Czech Crowns... ($5).

How I'll miss you. One note though, never haul a taxi in Prague. NEVER. I knew from the beginning because I was told so, but a friend of mine decided, "Oh, how convenient. The supposed only safe Taxi company in Prague. Right in front of me. I'm tired, I'll just take this home to lovely Osadni dorm." OOPS. You were expecting to pay 100 crowns? Well, you're paying 300. Sorry!  

I had called in advance for my taxi this morning (as you should) and told them I had a discount voucher for the ride to the airport (something every taxi company should do). If you have this leaflet, you get 47% of your entire ride back to the airport. I mean, that was a $12 taxi ride, all the way out to the airport. I had spent $98 to Newark Airport from Brooklyn (I know, not the best idea...). 

Ruzyně International Airport

I arrived at the airport, with my large hiking backpack and huge rolling (poorly) duffel bag, hoping that my large bag wasn't over 23kg and that they let me past security with my huge backpack. Just my BAD LUCK, my bag weighed a whopping 27kg... 2kg over what they would accept... My bags were so fully stuffed, there was no way I could have just moved stuff around. I had to throw stuff OUT. Threw out my lovely jewelry box (SOO UPSET ABOUT THIS. I loved this jewelry box... At least I didn't throw out the jewelry inside), all of my makeup (which I don't use anyway) and my perfume... And the majority of my hair product. I haven't been happy with what it's been doing to my hair recently... What was I thinking??

Reminder: never get flustered and throw out whatever seems the heaviest because you're ready to leave... 

Brought it down to 23.8kg, perfectly acceptable.

YAY... I'm ready to go to Marseille!! My flight is scheduled for 1:10 and I should arrive at 3:10! It's 11....

Finally we (me and mostly just French speaking lovelies) boarded the wonderful Air France plane and I immediately I noticed a weird sound... It sounded like when you're trying to start a car but it just won't start..... 

Sat down in my lovely empty row (which remained empty, as did the row in front of me), and sat there listening to this sound for 30 minutes, at least. 

......

......

......

Finally, a French voice came over the intercom saying... [French] stuff. The majority of the people gave a grunt and began gathering their things and standing up. Then the same voice began speaking English saying there was a problem and we would have to leave the plane...... 

On the bright side, they gave us a voucher for 200 crowns ($10. Thought I was done using Czech currency) for "refreshments" (that means anything sold at a restaurant). I got a fancy French wine and smoked meats at the wine bar. OOOHHH YEAH. I don't know why, but I always find myself eating something from the country I am going to in preparation in the airport of the country I am coming from. For example, I had beer and sausage in the New York airport in preparation for Germany (connecting airport) and the Czech Republic. I was right. There were a lot of those things in those countries.

Sausages and Beer in Newark Airport back in January

Let's say, I waited a total of 5 hours at the aiport and I was over 2 hours delayed when I arrived in Marseille...

FLASHING LIGHTS, LOUD NOISES!!!!! EXCITEMENT!

 

 Marseille Landscape

First experience when driving through Marseille on the bus was HOLY CRAP, it's beautiful, and also HOLY CRAP, it's hilly!!! That's going to suck for when I get my bike like I planned.

Marseille lies in a sheltered depression surrounded by hills, which have inhibited the development of the suburbs. The Old Port (Vieux Port, more on that later) is a natural harbor and one of the most westerly of the inlets along the rocky coastline characteristic of the northeastern Mediterranean(whatever that means); farther west, beyond a large tidal lake called the Berre Lagoon (Étang de Berre), the shoreline flattens out. 

 Basically, coming from outside (the airport) I drove from higher to lower into Marseille where it flattens out into the sea. 

PS, according to someone from Marseille, Marseille is the oldest city in France! Or something like that... 

I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it definitely feels clustered, all the different levels, scattered and jagged. Up and down and up and down: crowded! 

I don't remember San Francisco when I went as a newborn, but I get the feeling this is more of a miniscule, concentrated and jagged depiction of those hills. But with colorful short European structures... Mind you, beautiful, stunning, breathtaking. I couldn't stop smiling the whole bus ride into town. 

San Francisco... Similar in my mind?

  I've Arrived!!

Now to meet Patrick!... Oh Patrick... He is the friend of the guy who owns the apartment. Met him at Saint Charles terminal. What a lovely middle aged guy. Strong as a horse. He rides a bike in a city where drivers hate cyclist. 

What a true Frenchman. Stripes and everything. Don't mind the lens scratches

He also carried my 23.8kg bag with the straps around his shoulders like a backpack down a flight of stairs. A BEAST. 

More on my neighborhood later. Came up out of the subway and didn't see much of it until later that night and the next day. 

My apartment is SO COOL!!!

I'll post pictures later, when I replace my camera which was stolen (not recently... in my Prague dorm)

It's very "zen" as Patrick put it. The apartment owner designs Japanese inspired children's clothes and spends half of his time in Japan and half in Marseille, so the apartment is very earthy, bohemian and Japanese inspired. And I have my own mini courtyard!

 

Spent the rest of my evening figuring out the apartment with Patrick, attempting to figure out internet (ethernet... can't leave the "computer station" to watch movies...), and going to a ghetto grocery store opened late on the bustling street of La Canabiere in Thiers. (I learned later there's a bodega-like grocery store opened until probably midnight a couple blocks from my apartment. Oh well...)

I can definitely tell it's not a neighborhood to walk alone at night.. Lots of sketchy looking fellows...

BUT: I did walk through Notre Dame du Mont neighborhood (Cours Julien area) to get there and it's absolutely BRIMMING with young artist types and hip edgy shops, bars and restaurants. So excited. Supposedly I live in the hippest neighborhood in Marseille. I can tell, I LOVE IT