Wednesday, May 23, 2012

First Full Day in Marseille

The Day to Get Stuff Done (or just explore)


Didn't actually get anything from the grocery store the night before. It was that disgusting. And overpriced. Thankfully, I waited because I'm learning where to get the best prices now (closer to NYC prices...). 
This morning I found a Petit Casino (not so Petit as the place before) that is an actual supermarket only a couple blocks from my apartment. 
The produce shop I go to NOW (not Petit Casino). They have spinach here!!!! I've been having trouble finding it


My neighborhood is even cooler during the day... Bright, colorful, happening, young. For example, that little fruit and vegetable shop is a staple around my parts ;)

Neighborhoods of Marseille (or ones I've been to so far)
If you don't feel like learning about Neighborhoods of Marseille, skip down to "Getting Stuff Done in Marseille"

  -  ""
Cours Julien, Notre Dame du Mont and La Plaine -  "A particularly nice neighborhood"

I would agree with that sentiment. I think I live in a "particularly nice neighborhood." I'm not sure if it was just the author of that website that wrote that, but I get the feeling I've seen the saying around town as well. But supposedly the neighborhood is the most hip one in all of Marseille and it's famous for it's street art.


Le quartier est très agréable en journée et regorge de créateurs de mode, fleuristes, concept store, restos et bars tendances, magasins de musique, brocantes et marchés... Les nombreuses rues piétonnes, la grande place Jean Jaurès, l'ambiance inimitable du cours Julien et la tranquilité de la place Notre Dame du Mont font du quartier un endroit privilégié par les artistes en tous genres, les bobos marseillais et de nombreux jeunes et étudiants.

Le cours Julien est souvent le lieu de manifestations intéressantes : Journées des Plantes, Marché Paysan, vide-greniers, sardinade, salons de la Création, et la célèbre Fête du Plateau... Le soir, le quartier s'anime et accueille une population tout aussi importante. De nombreux bars musicaux, salles de concerts et petits restos contribuent à rendre l'endroit vivant et agréable.
The area is very pleasant during the day and is packed with fashion designers, florists, concept stores, restaurants, trendy bars, music stores, and markets [of different sorts depending on the day]... The many pedestrian streets, the great place Jean Jaures, the inimitable atmosphere of Cours Julien and tranquility of the place. Notre Dame du Mont makes the neighborhood a great place for artists of all kinds, the bums of Marseille and many young students.

Cours Julien is often the place of interesting events: Garden Days, a Farmers Market, yard sales, sardines (have yet to learn what that means), salons of Creation (or that... must be French. I'm learning with you), and the famous Feast of the Plateau (can't wait for that!) ... At night the area comes alive and has a population just as important. Many music bars, concert halls and eateries help make the place lively and pleasant.
Le Champ de Mars, a very popular bar you can't help but pass in Cours Julien

The graffiti-filled walls near the steps leading up to the Cours Julien section of the city.


Cours Julien marketplace (you can see the steps down to the city)

 
Canebiere and Noailles (next door to my neighb)
Au centre des grands projets de réhabilitation du centre ville, la Canebière s'éveille à nouveau grâce au passage du Tramway et à un effort continu pour redorer les couleurs de cette institution marseillaise. Du palais de la Bourse aux Réformés, de Noailles à la Porte d'Aix une ambiance très marseillaise s'en dégage.

Jouxtant la Canebière, le quartier Noailles est célèbre pour son Marché des Capucins et pour la diversité des épices que l'on y trouve.
 
In the center of major rehabilitation projects downtown, Canebière wakes again thanks to the passage of the Tramway and a continuous effort to burnish the colors of this institution Marseille. The palace of the Exchange for Reformed de Noailles at the Porte d'Aix Marseille an atmosphere emerges.

Adjoining the Canebiere, the Noailles district (MUCH MORE IMPORTANT TO ME) is famous for its Capuchin Market and the variety of spices and produce that are there.

Noailles is a lively and colorful neighborhood. The neighborhood distinguishes itself by its huge foreign community and exotic shops, mainly Handicrafts, traditional restaurants and exotic grocery stores. It's the only neighborhood you can get products from the five continents (of this hemisphere???) in the same area. 



Canebiers
 
Estienne d'Orves & Rue Sainte
Estienne d'Orves & Saint Street

Proche du vieux port, le quartier Estienne d'Orves - Place aux Huiles,est un des lieux les plus agréables pour flaner au gré de ses envies... La place abrite de nombreux bars et restaurants, plusieurs galeries d'art, la chambre de l'artisanat et des métiers d'art et de nombreuses boutiques de prêt à porter.

Boosté par le dynamisme des commerçants du quartier, la place est souvent le lieu de manifestations culturelles.

Parrallèle à la place, la rue Sainte, est devenue ces dernières années une des rues à la mode de Marseille. De nombreux concept store y fleurissent et cotoient les nombreux restaurants et quelques institutions marseillaises comme le santonnier Carbonel et son musée ou le célèbre Four des Navettes.

Near the old port district Estienne d'Orves - Place Oils, is one of the most pleasant places to stroll to suit your desires ... The square is home to many bars and restaurants, crafts, several art galleries, the chamber of crafts and many shops selling clothes.

Boosted by strong neighborhood merchants, the area is often the place of cultural events.

Parallel to the place, Sainte, in recent years has become one of the fashionable streets of Marseilles. Many concept stores bloom there and rub shoulders with many restaurants and some institutions such as Marseilles santonnier Carbonel and Museum or the famous Four Shuttles.
 
I will walk through here to get to my internship every week
Lively street I had my first meal "out" on. I walk down it to get to my internship.
  -  ""
The Old Port - "The Heart and Soul of the City"

 
Pour découvrir Marseille, tout commence sur le Vieux Port et les rues adjacentes.
On s'y retrouve sur l'une des nombreuses terrasses ensoleillées, on profite de l'ambiance unique et on part à la découverte des boutiques et restos qui longent les quais.

Haut lieu des sorties nocturnes et culturelles, le vieux port est à  l'image de marseille, un lieu unique où se côtoient toutes les populations, des touristes aux pécheurs traditionnels.

Marché aux poissons tous les matins, écaillers, locations de bateaux, accessoires de plongée, agences de voyages... Le vieux port est à l'image de Marseille, un lieu de vie animé, intimement lié à la mer et aux voyages.

To explore Marseilles, everything starts at the Old Port and the adjacent streets.
One should start on one of the many sunny terraces, where you can enjoy the unique atmosphere and from there you can start to explore the shops and restaurants that line the docks.

Vieux Port is a mecca of nightlife and culture. It is the image of Marseille, a unique place which combines all populations, from tourists to the traditional fishermen.

Fish market every morning, oystermen, boat rentals, diving gear, travel agencies ... The old port is the image of Marseille, a vibrant place to live, intimately linked to the sea and travel.






  -  ""
Opera & Paradis St - "Shopping 'differently' in the heart of the city

Au coeur de la ville, entre le Vieux Port et la Préfecture, se trouve l'un des quartiers les plus intéressants.
Autour de l'Opéra Municipal, le quartier se démarque par la diversité et par la qualité des boutiques que l'on y trouve.

La rue de la Mode, la rue Davso, le bas de la rue Paradis et bien sur la rue Grignan attirent de nombreux marseillais.


At the heart of the city, between the Old Port and the Prefecture, is one of the most interesting neighborhoods.
Around the Municipal Theatre, the district is noted for the diversity and quality of shops that are there.

Street Fashion, Street Davso down the street and of course Paradise Street Grignan Marseille which attract many. (
Paradis has everything... H&M included. Craziest and busiest H&M I've ever been in)

This area is one of the more commercial and newer areas of Marseille. Be prepared to be attacked by the homeless...

This is where all of the tourists can be found! Along with Vieux Port. None of which speak English might I add you. Nor do the majority of the natives... Kinda tough. At least I'm animated!



  
Getting Stuff Done in Marseille
Patrick came over for all the many questions I still had. We never got the hot water or the oven working... But eventually, us smarties, figured both out. 
We also figured out wifi in the apartment AND for some reason Marseille is really cool and you can pay a phone/internet company to have wifi access throughout the city. SFR and Free both have routers on most blocks and if you have an account you can get wifi anywhere (only if you sign in every time you move a block away or close your phone... BLEGH).  I now have an SFR account so I can get wifi nearly anywhere, which is nice when you're stranded and absolutely need that connection... 
Patrick took me out "on the town"
Dunno why, but I've learned how to get around this place instantly... Took me weeks in Prague. Probably because I was following everyone else and we took the tram everywhere and the places we went were rather far apart... Also Prague is all curvy and the streets don't really make sense. Marseille isn't nearly as bad at that.
We went to find a place that would make keys. Neither of us knew the word for it exactly, in English or French. Key-maker? Locksmith?

Spent 20euros for 4 keys... EHHHHH..... Did I mention...?

FRANCE IS EXPENSIVE!!!

Especially compared to Prague. Everything is dirt cheap in Prague. For the most part. A glass of wine? $2, a beer? $2... Here? At least $4-$5 and that's dirt cheap here!! Because, of course, France is where you get cheap wine! 
COST OF PRAGUE COMPARED TO MARSEILLE  - no, but seriously, go here. You'll learn something. Explore the site. It's pretty awesome what you learn with a little research ;)

 
Patrick took me out to Cours Julien square (after the ATM)
Interesting Fact: The Homeless are Ruthless here. More so even than NYC or anywhere I've ever been. In Prague, for the most part, they sit on the side of the sidewalk, out of the way, bowing as low as possible so that you can't see their face, with a hat in their hands. Motionless. In Marseille, they sit next to the ATM, obviously already tripping balls, loudly asking for money as soon as you withdraw your bills... I also was standing on Paradis street (shopping district) trying to get Wifi and a man came up to me showing me a coin. I said I don't speak French and kept repeating "No." First of all, all I had was Czech coins... He wouldn't leave me alone. He began following me. Maybe if you're polite I'll give you money old man... I walked away.  
 
And we had a coffee. I had an iced coffee (which he said he never has, and now I realize no French people have. They have their mini EXTRA STRONG coffee BLACK). 
So, Patrick thought this was hilarious, but I kind of thought it was a tiny bit rude, but the iced coffee came out with a straw and there was like foam bubbling out of the top of the straw. I grabbed the straw to suck on it, but to my dismay, it was a spoon to stir the coffee with a little ball on the end. Patrick literally couldn't stop cracking up for probably 5 minutes straight. He thought it was absolutely hilarious. I just sat there laughing for probably 10 seconds, then in silence as he continued to laugh at me... It was only slightly awkward... Love the guy, but that wasn't that funny...Or maybe it was... Guess I just don't get the French humor.

Meeting My Boss Lady :)
Headed down my NOW favorite street of Rue Estelle (the really steep one that leads from steps from Cours Julien). It's a great view. Not my favorite street when I have to go back up it though!  Below it (it turns into a bridge) you can see the bustling street of Cours Lieutaud running perpendicular.

 
I love the location of Monkey Bay Productions, the production company I'll be interning for in Marseille. It's right off of the port. As your walking down the (yet another) steep hill of the street (Rue Fort Notre Dame) towards the office, you're walking towards the Vieux Port. 

 
Great People. I'll technically be working for the Journalist, Coralie, and I will be finding them "fixers" in the foreign countries that they will be filming their documentary in. The "fixer" (as it is said in French) is the person that finds the people and families to be filmed making sure they are good candidates in front of the camera and making sure the logistics are ready for shooting in that country. They will also be doing transportation. I would say that they are the production coordinator in that country, but they do more than that and not exactly the same things, at all.... So not really a production coordinator. Kind of like a Production Manager for that Unit... But not a UPM, having nothing to do with budget, as it is my understanding...  
So that's where my research skills (and fluency in English) come in handy. 
Oh yeah, they offered me a work email. Uh huh...

I'm really excited about working for them, I'm just nervous that they want me to start so soon. I was hoping for a little bit of a break (maybe a couple weeks before getting back to work in the film industry)... But I guess that's just how the industry works...  
 

One problem: I still didn't have a French phone. I had given them my Czech number which to reach me by. 
So I went to an SFR store (made a friend with the woman who works there: Julia!) that I had passed by on my walk to MBP (I've never done that before... haha) along Rue Sainte (if you read all of my blog, you'd know a little bit about Rue Sainte already!). Like I said, things are expensive in France. Supposedly things in Marseille are about half the price that they are in Paris... So that's one of the big reasons I chose Marseille! It's also supposedly the cheapest city along the Mediterranean coast. Which results in a lot of North African immigration, and immigration in general.

Definitely going to be eating mostly from home. Restaurants are so expensive unless you get like a gross salad (slightly better than Prague cheap salads) or a panini from a little cafe somewhere... I miss chlebicky for 16Kc (a little less than $1).
But nothing beats my home cooked meals. Or so I think.... And the spices that I usually use for my chicken are fresher than ever because I use Provence spices :))

Oh Provence. Oh Marseille. How I love you


 

2 comments:

  1. Ahhh... be open to the French way.... and do little to show you have American preferences---- the coffee in france is just what i like...so there... it looks incredible and sounds the same... the French are rude because they are so right about most things... that to have a foreigner to poo poo their way is rightly trounced upon.... it costs a little more to do things right...Bon apetit

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  2. I love the French way :)
    I trounce people who look down upon new unknown cultures. We should all be Open to new cultures and ways of life. That is why I love traveling. I'm excited to learn more about the French way :)

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